The best time to go to Ukraine is in spring (late April to early June), when perfumed chestnut trees bloom and people the country over rejoice in throwing off heavy winter coats. The Orthodox rituals surrounding Easter are fabulous, plus there's a sense of reawakening as cafes begin to set out outdoor seating again and hikers retake the heights of the Carpathian and Crimean Mountains. Attractions are less crowded and rainfall is lighter than in summer.

During the sometimes stiflingly hot summer (July-August), things get relatively busy as locals head en masse for Crimea, the Black Sea Coast and the Carpathians. Everything is focused on the great outdoors and most theatres close. Autumn is almost as inviting as spring, as the crowds dissipate and the mercury drops to a more comfortable level.

In December and January it's bitingly cold inland, particularly in the east. But this is a good time to head to the Carpathian Mountains, Ukraine's skiing district. Travellers should be prepared to don thick wool sweaters and eat their vegetables pickled. It's wise to book ahead during the public holidays in the first weeks of January and May.

Weather

Ukraine has your typical harsh eastern European winter; however, it is shorter than most countries of this region. The northern parts of the Ukraine see the temperature rise from an icy range of -10 to -4°C (14 to 25°F) in January to a comfortable 15-25°C (59-77°F) range in July. The southern regions are just that bit friendlier, with cold but still milder winters and slightly warmer summers. Moderate rainfall occurs the year round but is nowhere particularly heavy at any time.

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