St Petersburg isn't exactly gym crazy, but there's plenty of ways to keep active. In the summer, drift through the canals in a rowboat; in the winter settle in for some serious banya (bath house) action, try a couple of games in the city's numerous billiards joints or head out of town for some cross-country skiing. If you're the right kind of masochist, there's always ice swimming.
Forget the gym, Russians like to de-stress in a banya : a furnace-hot steam room in which they beat themselves and their friends with bundles of birch branches.
You can also try ice swimming - yes that's swimming (in icy water, the Neva when it's frozen), if you want to go really local.
Winter can be just as active if you, like the Russians, enjoy cross-country skiing - Toksovo is a popular resort just north of St Petersburg.
In summer, a lovely way to while away a day is paddling through the canals and lakes on Yelagin Island. You can rent a row boat at the northern end of the moat around the Peter & Paul Fortress. Or, for an adventure, take a yacht up to the Gulf of Finland and plant your parasol on the beach.
St P's team were a shameful lot in the early 1990s but under coach Anatoly Davydov's leadership, they won the 1998 Russian Cup, and made it to the nationals in 2001; you can watch them at the Petrovsky Stadium.
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