Paraguay: Itineraries

Start your Paraguayan adventure in Asunción. The uncomplicated 20min drive from the airport will clear your mind for a relaxing stroll around this marvelous colonial city. Drop your bags off and head straight to the magnificent Palacio de Gobierno. For more architectural splendor, cross the road to the free Centro Cultural Manzana de la Rivera, a complex of eight gorgeously colorful houses. Continue on to Plaza de Armas and take a look at the Casa de La Cultura, previously the Royal School Seminary of San Carlos. Pop in and admire the Cabildo, an antique Jesuit house, then drop your jaw at the beautiful 19th-century Catedral Metropolitana. Along Presidente Franco is the recently reinaugurated Teatro Municipal, and a block northwest is the famous Casa de la Independencia. Built in 1772, it's the place where Paraguayans declared their independence. Finally, scoot across to the Panteón de los Héroes where a military guard protects the remains of key figures. For a late lunch, drop in to the nearby Lido Bar - choose from a diverse menu of Paraguayan specialties. On your way back to the hotel for a siesta, pick up a copy of Tiempo Libre for a listing of live music and theater. Before you head out to see a show, stop for a drink at Pirata Bar for a unique look at Asunción nightlife.

From Asunción, hop on a rickety local bus, or jump in a taxi, and prepare yourself for a taste of rural and historical Paraguay. First stop: San Bernardino! Renowned as the elite escape for Asunción's privileged classes, tranquil 'San Ber' offers the lot for top relaxation. Take a short cruise on the lake or chill in the shade by a pool. Next stop: Areguá! An eclectic mix of strawberries and artisans, the town's main artworks are of the ceramic kind - they're displayed en masse in public. More tasteful are the historic cobbled streets with exquisite colonial homes. Third stop: Yaguarón! The 18th-century Franciscan church is a landmark of colonial architecture. For history buffs, the nearby Museo del Doctor Francia was the first dictator's house and has fabulous period portraiture and statues. Last stop: Itauguá! For the women here, weaving multi-colored spiderweb ñandutí (lace) is a cottage industry lasting from childhood to old age - pick up a souvenir. If you're here in July, join in the celebrations at the annual Festival de Ñandutu.

In the unlikely event you haven't been tempted to stay overnight at one of these gorgeous villages, treat yourself to a good-value traditional meal back in Asunción at the revered Taberna Española.

Sitting by the Río Paraguay, Concepción and its surrounds are highly underrated. Take a nosey around the early-20th-century buildings in the city center, stare in awe at the stunning mansions of Estigarribia then stop for ice cream at Heledería Amistad, taking in the peaceful ambience as a horse leading a cart of watermelons trots by. Relaxed yet? Jump on a bus headed for Pedro Juan Caballero and 45min later you'll find yourself at the entrance to Parque Nacional Cerro Corá. Set within steep hills, the dry tropical forest and natural savanna await you. Follow the trails to rivers and waterfalls, become one with nature, then step inside pre-Columbian caves and indulge in some animal-spotting - rare birds, armadillos and monkeys are among the possibilities. Grab a power nap on the ride back into town then hop on a cargo boat (don't forget food) for a night or two. It's all about hammocks below deck, but the upside is the breathtaking wildlife along the banks of the river. From caimans and capybaras to herons and macaws, you may want to continue all the way to Brazil - which is possible if you disembark at Isla Margarita and jump aboard a skiff.