Isla de Ometepe: History

Pre-20th-Century History

Massive Lago de Nicaragua, also known by its indigenous name, Cocibolca ('sweet sea'), was the spiritual heart of pre-colonial Nicaragua and is Central America's largest lake. Isla de Ometepe, the biggest island on the lake, has enormous spiritual, mythological and archaeological significance, much of which is related to its twin volcanoes, Concepción and Madera.

Estimates vary as to how long the island has been inhabited, but the most common theory seems to be that the first indigenous settlers made it their home some time between 3000 and 1500 BC. How and why they came to the island is also open to debate: one view is that they were part of a migratory movement from South America, bound for Mexico. Another is that they traveled to the island from the north, in search of a promised land predicted by their prophets - a paradise characterized by two hills. Indeed, the name Ometepe means 'two mountains' in ancient Náhuatl.

The creation of the island is tied up in the legend of a beautiful Niquirano maiden, Ometepetl, who fell in love with Nagrando, a warrior from the opposing Nagrandano tribe. Despite the gods' support for their romance, the great chief Niquirano ordered that Ometepetl be imprisoned and her beau executed. The young lovers fled, and before Niquirano's men could track them down, killed themselves in a romantic suicide pact. Thus it is said that the water of Lago Cocibolca is their blood, the island of nearby Zapatero is the lifeless body of Nagrando, and the volcanoes of Ometepe are Ometepetl's breasts.

European conquest of the region in the 16th century paved the way for pirates to use Ometepe as their base between assaults on Granada - woe betide any locals who deprived them of their women, possessions, animals or crops. Not about to take this lying down, the island's native inhabitants moved inland to safer, higher ground on the volcanoes. Though the Spanish annexed Ometepe in the late 16th century, it remained vulnerable to French, Dutch and English pirates for another century.

After a long dormant period, Volcán Concepción sprang back to life in December 1880, then erupted again in 1883, 1889 and into the twentieth century.

Modern History

Indeed, the fiery flow seems cyclical. In 1921, ash gave way to glowing red. The following year, lava and glowing boulders were tossed out with explosions heard in Granada. In 1944, ashfall as far as Rivas came as a warning - six months later, lava flows consumed hectares of crops. In 1957, tongues of flame 15m (49ft) high leapt from the summit following months of ashy exhalation. Although no lava burst forth, ashes inaugurated another two years of activity between 1983 and 1985. It's worth noting that, in 1957, when Concepción last bellowed fire and rock, President Somoza sent boats to evacuate. Not one person left - and not one person died. Due to her frequent activity and thick, streaming lava, Concepción is often referred to by her ancient name, Mestlitepe, the 'Menstruating Mountain'. In contrast, Volcán Madera has been extinct for around 800 years.

Unsurprisingly for a site with so much ancient history, Isla de Ometepe is a wonderland of statues, ceramics and petroglyphs. Among the more intriguing archaeological finds over the years have been carvings of unknown animals, fragments of what appears to be some kind of telescopic device, and strange aerial drawings of the island. Adding fuel to the fire, there have also been reports of luminous spheres flying across the skies and landing inside the volcanoes...

Isla de Ometepe was lucky enough to be spared involvement in the revolution and the Contra War, which wrought significant destruction across other parts of Nicaragua.

Recent History

These days, the island is a popular travel destination, largely among ecotourists, due to the double draw card of its fascinating distant past and abundant natural attractions. Its unspoiled charm is maintained thanks to minimal tourist infrastructure, and its economy is supported by fishing and healthy agricultural production, made possible by the fertile volcanic soil.

In 2005, a serious earthquake shook Ometepe. This was brought on by growing pressure within Volcán Concepción, which also caused an eruption. Cracks appeared on the roads, but overall damage was minimal.

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