Kathmandu: Getting there & around

Kathmandu's Tribhuvan airport is the only international terminal in the city. Not many airlines fly direct to Kathmandu but several European and Middle-Eastern airlines can get you here with a single change at their hub airport in western Europe or the Gulf. Another popular route is via India, with a change to a local carrier in Delhi or Kolkata. Domestic airlines fly throughout the country - the most popular route is Pokhara to Kathmandu.

It's easy to travel between Nepal and India by bus, but there are no direct bus services between the two countries. Despite what travel agents may tell you, everyone has to change buses at the border. Tour companies also run services from Kathmandu to Lhasa, in Tibet. Buses from Kathmandu's main station, on the Ring Road, travel to Pokhara and towns in the Terai, while those for the Kathmandu Valley and Arniko Highway run from the City Bus Station. It is usually easier - and safer - to use the more expensive tourist minibuses to reach Pokhara or Chitwan - buses leave from right in the centre, on Kantipath.

Tribhuvan airport is east of the city, and you can get a taxi to Thamel for a fixed fare.

The best way to see Kathmandu and the valley is to walk or ride a bike. Bus travel around the city is very cheap but unbelievably crowded, so much so that you'll probably miss your stop because there's no way you'll be able to see out the window. Tempos (like giant auto-rickshaws) follow similar routes for similar prices. A dilapidated trolley bus runs from near the National Stadium to Bhaktapur.

Taxis are reasonably priced, and drivers will use their meters if pushed. Around Thamel and other tourist hotspots, you may have to bargain for a (usually elevated) fare before you set off. Moving cabs are more likely to use the meter than stationary cabs outside tourist sights. Auto-rickshaws cost about half as much as cabs, though once again, you'll have to negotiate a price. Bicycle rickshaws are really a novelty these days - fares are often more expensive than cabs but you will get a unique viewpoint of the city.

You can't rent cars to drive yourself, but you can rent a car with a driver - a day trip around the valley will cost you about US$50.00 plus fuel. There are motorbikes for hire around Freak St and Thamel, but the congestion is crazy and you'll spend much of your time stuck in traffic breathing in truck fumes.