Kilkenny figures high on many an itinerary to Ireland and for good reason: it’s a fairly compact showplace with easily enjoyed heritage, a castle, interesting shops, a wide range of restaurants, lots of pubs and many inviting places to stay.
You can cover pretty much everything on foot in a couple of hours, but sampling the many delights will take much longer. There’s an elegance and vibrancy that give the town (oops, locals insist on ‘city’) a timeless appeal.
Much of Kilkenny’s architectural charm owes a huge debt to the Middle Ages, when the city was a seat of political power. But time has not passed the city by. Kilkenny remains a cultural centre, renowned for its devotion to the arts. Its cobbled pedestrian passageways and old-fashioned shop fronts may look like the way to a mysterious time-warp realm, but in reality they lead to cool bars, stylish boutiques and interesting restaurants. Kilkenny has plenty of modern allure, but it didn’t sell out its traditional charms to get here.
Kilkenny’s 60-odd licensed pubs and bars are a cheery mix of its gregarious citizens and the hordes of out-of-town merrymakers there for a fun-filled weekend. Along High St, every odd address appears to be a pub, and visitors staying near the centre can carouse from watering hole to watering hole.
Presiding over the town is a splendid medieval cathedral, named after St Canice (Cainneach or Kenneth), who founded a monastery here in the 6th century; hence the city’s Irish name, Cill Chainnigh. The town’s other ‘must-see’ attraction is its mighty castle (although it’s more mansion than fortress), which sits majestically on a sweep in the River Nore.
As if being medieval isn’t enough, Kilkenny is also sometimes called the ‘marble city’ because of the local black limestone, which resembles a slate-coloured marble. This attractive stone is seen to most striking effect in the cathedral, and is used on floors and in decorative trim all over town.
Kilkenny can get crowded. If possible, try for a weekday or sometime out of season, when you’ll have more opportunity to appreciate the timeless charms.
Last updated: Sep 15, 2008
