In February or March, followers of Vishnu go into celebration overdrive for the annual festival of Holi, celebrating the defeat of the demon king Hiranyakashipu by Narasimha (Lord Vishnu in his man-lion incarnation). Huge quantities of water and coloured powder are thrown around and everyone gets a drenching, including tourists. Many visitors buy some cheap clothes to wear and throw away at the end of the festival.

The Elephanta Festival is a classical dance and music event held on Elephanta Island, usually in February.

The highlight of the religious calendar is Ganesh Chaturthi, an 11-day Hindu festival held in August or September to honour Ganesh, the elephant-headed god of wisdom and prosperity. Hundreds of colourful images of Ganesh are sculpted from mud and displayed in pavilions around the city, before being ritually immersed in the ocean. At about the same time of year, Naag Panchami sees offerings made to snake images; snake charmers flock into the city with the real thing to celebrate the serpent Ananta, upon whose coils Vishnu rested. Snakes are believed to have power over the monsoon rains and can keep evil from homes, but animal welfare groups have raised concerns about the treatment of snakes during this festival.

On the last day of the monsoon, in a ritual called Nariyal Poornima, Mumbai's fisherfolk offer coconuts and flowers to the sea god Varuna to calm the turbulent monsoon waters on the last day of the rainy season. Freshly painted boats are launched and a new fishing season begins. This festival is best seen at fishing communities in Colaba and Versova.

Every September, Mumbai's Christians celebrate the Feast Day of the Virgin Mary at the Bandra Fair, centred on the Basilica of Mount Mary in Bandra.

Each year, Muslims celebrate the end of the fasting month of Ramadan when the new moon appears at Id-ul-Fitr. The festival moves back 11 days every year - it will take place in October in 2006, 2007 and 2008.

Celebrated in Mumbai during October or November, Diwali - the festival of lights - goes off with gusto. Commemorating Rama's return from exile, families place butter lamps in doorways and windows and a barrage of fireworks explode across the city. For a quieter spectacle, watch the traditional Diwali lamps being floated on the Banganga Tank.

The Gregorian New Year's Eve is also celebrated: effigies of old men symbolising the dying year are paraded through the street accompanied by fervent drumming and dancing. At the stroke of midnight the effigies are set alight and bombarded by firecrackers. This whooping event is best witnessed on Colaba's harbour front between the Taj Mahal Hotel and Arthur Bunder Rd.

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26 Jan

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