Jaisalmer: History

Pre-20th-Century History

Jaisalmer's history since it was founded in 1156 has been derived from the tales and songs of bards. The succession of maharajas of Jaisalmer trace their lineage back to Jaitasimha, a ruler of the Bhatti Rajput clan. The Bhatti Rajput trace their lineage back to Krishna.

The 13th and 14th centuries were a tempestuous time, as local rulers relied on looting for want of other income. In return, Jaisalmer suffered repeated revenge attacks. In the 14th century the emperor of Delhi, Ala-ud-din Khilji, mounted an expedition to Jaisalmer to retrieve treasure that the Bhattis had taken from a caravan train en route to the imperial capital. He laid siege to Jaisalmer Fort for nine years. When defeat was imminent, jauhar (ritual mass suicide) was declared: the women of Jaisalmer committed themselves to the flames, while the men donned saffron robes and rode out to certain death. Jaitasimha's son Duda, a hero of the Bhattis, perished in the battle, but his descendants continued to rule over the desert kingdom.

The relationship between the Jaisalmer rulers and the Mughal empire was not always hostile, and various marriages were contracted between the two parties to cement their alliance. Later Jaisalmer notables include Sabala Simha, who won the patronage of the Muslim Emperor Shah Jahan in the mid-17th century when he fought with distinction in a campaign at Peshawar. Although not the legitimate heir to the gaddi (throne), Shah Jahan invested Sabala Simha with the power to rule Jaisalmer, and he annexed areas that now fall into the administrative districts of Bikaner and Jodhpur.

The Jaisalmer rulers continued to line their coffers with illicit gains won through cattle rustling as well as through more orthodox methods, such as imposing levies on the caravans that passed through the kingdom on their way to Delhi. They were renowned for both their valour in battle and for their treachery, as they fought to enlarge and secure their territories.

Religion and the fine arts flourished under the rulers of Jaisalmer. Although professing Hinduism, they were tolerant of Jainism, encouraging the construction of the beautiful temples that now grace the old city within the fort walls. Sculptural depictions of both Hindu and Jain deities and holy men stand side by side on the walls of these fine edifices. These visionary rulers commissioned scholars to copy precious sacred manuscripts and books of ancient learning that may otherwise have been lost during Muslim raids.

From the 16th to the 18th century Jaisalmer's strategic position on the camel-train routes between India and Central Asia brought it great wealth. The merchants and townspeople built magnificent houses and mansions, all carved from wood and golden-yellow sandstone. These merchant havelis can be found elsewhere in Rajasthan (notably in Shekhawati), but nowhere are they quite as exquisite as in Jaisalmer.

Modern History

The rise of shipping trade and the port of Mumbai saw the city decline. Independence, partition and the cutting of trade routes through to Pakistan seemingly sealed the city's fate, and water shortages could have pronounced the death sentence. However, the 1965 and 1971 wars between India and Pakistan revealed Jaisalmer's strategic importance, and the Indira Gandhi Canal to the north is restoring life to the desert.

Recent History

Today tourism rivals the military base as the pillar of the city's economy. The presence of the Border Security Force means that the occasional sound of war planes disturbs the tranquillity of this desert gem. Being so reliant on the tourist dollar, Jaisalmer is in a vulnerable position. When tensions run high along the border, the city suffers. In 2002, when tourists stayed away following India's decision to conduct nuclear tests, Jaisalmer was deserted.

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