Haiti: Money & Costs

The official currency is the gourde, which is divided into 100 centimes. In the past, the gourde was fixed to the US dollar at a rate of 5 gourdes to the dollar, and the 5-gourde bill is still sometimes referred to as one Haitian dollar. (The exchange rate is no longer fixed; one US dollar bought 39 gourdes in July 2006.) This can be confusing; when you are buying something the price may be quoted in gourdes, Haitian dollars or even US dollars.

You will need gourdes almost immediately upon arrival. There are no exchange desks at the Port-au-Prince airport, but you will find at least one ATM (which may or may not be working). Porters and taxi drivers at the airport should accept US dollars, but exchange some money as soon as possible. There are plenty of banks in Port-au-Prince, and a thriving black market allows you to change money in the street (at only slightly worse rates). Hotels exchange money at terrible rates. Both Visa and MasterCard are accepted at most car rental places, as well as at nicer restaurants and hotels.

Haiti can be a perplexing country when it comes to costs. The true cost of everything, if there is one, may seem to the average blan (foreigner) like the best-kept secret in the country. You can pay US$1 for a huge meal at a streetside cafe or US$50 in a Pétionville restaurant, so the cost of a visit can vary hugely according to your standards. Decent hotels tend to be quite expensive (US$70 per night), while budget places (US$8 per night) can be quite rough and not very secure.

A 10% tip is normal in restaurants, and a small tip for bar staff is expected. Porters at the hotel and airport also expect tips. If you park your car in an urban area, you may be asked if you want someone to watch it. Pick one person, ask his or her name to avoid argument later on, and pay 5 gourdes when you return. Bartering is a way of life in Haiti, so don't be put off by the first priced offered even if it's wildly high. Some artisans have fixed prices, but a little negotiation can take place.

Most of the larger hotels charge a 10% sales tax, and many also tack on a daily energy charge of US$3-5. Smaller hotels and guesthouses tend to offer an all-inclusive price. A departure tax of US$30 (which must be paid in US dollars) plus 10 gourdes is charged at the airport.