Berlin: Getting there & around

Orientation

Berlin sits in the middle of the region known from medieval times as the Mark of Brandenburg, now the Bundesland (federal state) of Brandenburg. The city spills north and south of the Spree River, which winds through some of the magnificent parkland that comprises a third of the municipal area. In 2001, Berlin's previous 23 administrative districts were reduced to 12 in an effort to curb bureaucracy. There is little impact on visitors, however, as the old district names continue to be used.

Berlin is divided into 12 administrative districts but you're likely to spend most of your time in the central ones. The historic heart is the Mitte district, which is where most of the must-see sights are located. Among them is the majestic Fernsehturm (TV Tower), a useful orientation point visible from most of central Berlin. It's right on Alexanderplatz, once the heart of socialist East Germany. West of here, Unter der Linden, the fashionable avenue of aristocratic old Berlin, extends all the way to the Brandenburg Gate. It passes by the Museumsinsel, an island in the Spree River, where you'll find most of Berlin's finest museums. The city's birthplace is just south of here, near the Nikolaiviertel, a rebuilt historical quarter. West of the Brandenburg Gate, the boulevard continues as Strasse des 17 Juni through the Tiergarten, a huge landscaped park. You may remember the Victory Column at its centre from the Wim Wender's film Wings of Desire .

North of the Brandenburg Gate is the newly built federal government quarter anchored by the Reichstag, while south of the gate is Potsdamer Platz, Berlin's newest quarter and entertainment hub. There's good shopping here and also along the Kurfürstendamm (Ku'damm, for short) in the district of Charlottenburg, west of the Tiergarten.

The most sizzling nightlife zones are in neighbourhoods just outside the centre, most importantly bohemian Prenzlauer Berg, grungy Kreuzberg and student-oriented Friedichshain.

Getting There

• bus

  Berlin is well-connected to the rest of Europe by long-distance bus. Most buses arrive at and depart from the ZOB (Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof), the central bus station, in Charlottenburg, opposite the stately Funkturm (radio tower).

• car

  Driving is another option: the A10 ring road links Berlin with other German and foreign cities in every direction, including the A11 to Szczecin (Stettin) in Poland; the A12 to Frankfurt /Oder; the A13 to Dresden; the A9 to Leipzig, Nuremburg and Munich; the A2 to Hanover and Magdeburg, and the Ruhrgebiet cities, and the A24 to Hamburg.

• train

  The German train system is justifiably known as the most efficient in Europe and connects Berlin with the rest of Germany and other European countries. The sparkling new Hauptbahnhof opened in May 2006 and is the hub for the majority of long-distance, intercity and regional trains arriving in Berlin. Regional services also stop at other central stations, such as Bahnhof Zoo in the western city centre (for destinations to the west of Berlin) and Ostbahnhof in the eastern centre.

• plane

  There are hardly any direct flights to Berlin from overseas (London and New York are among the exceptions) and, depending on the airline you use, you're likely to fly first into another European city like Frankfurt, Amsterdam, Paris or London and catch a connecting flight from there. Departure tax is included in the price of an airline ticket purchased in Germany.

  Berlin has three airports. Tegel (TXL) primarily serves destinations within Germany and Western Europe. Schönefeld (SXF) mostly operates international flights to/from Eastern Europe, Asia and Africa. The third airport is the central but tiny Tempelhof (THF)in southern Kreuzberg, which handles mostly shorter domestic and regional hops. It became famous as the main landing strip for Allied airlifts during the Berlin blockade of 1948-49 It's expected to close in late 2007.

  Berlin's three airports can all be reached by train or bus, which will save you stacks on taxi fares. Tegel is connected twice hourly to the Mitte district by the JetExpressBus TXL and the Charlottenburg or northern Wilmersdorf districts by bus X9 or 109. Schönefeld airport is served by the AirportExpress train from any major central train station, including Bahnhof Zoo, Alexanderplatz and Ostbahnhof. The S9 leaves more frequently from the same stations. Alternatively, bus 171 or express bus X7 can take you to Rudow U-Bahn station with connections to central Berlin on the U7. Tempelhof is served by the U6 (get off at Platz der Luftbrücke) and bus 119 from Kurfürstendamm via Kreuzberg.

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Getting Around

• bus

  Berlin's buses are rather slow, but comfortable. Bus stops are marked with a large 'H' and the name of the stop. Drivers sell tickets and can give change. The next stop is usually announced or displayed on a digital board. Push the button on the handrails to signal to the driver that you want to get off. Night buses operate from around midnight until 04:30 , running at roughly 30-minute intervals. Normal fares apply.

• car

  Driving in Berlin is easier than in most big cities, but it's no walk in the park, either. There's still plenty of construction going on, resulting in gridlock, mysteriously rerouted roads and sudden dead ends. A better choice is to stick with the excellent public transport system.

• walking

  The historic centre of Berlin is surprisingly compact and is best explored on foot. It's safe to walk anywhere in the central city, including in the large parks like Tiergarten, though as in any city, be extra careful at night.

• tram

  The rickety trams of Berlin's past have been replaced with sleek new versions. They operate only in the eastern sections of the city; about 30 lines crisscross the entire eastern half of Berlin.

• taxi

  You'll find taxi ranks at the airports, major train stations and throughout the city. Taxis can also be ordered by telephone but they are cheaper if flagged down. There should be no surcharges for night trips; bulky luggage costs extra. For short trips, you can use the Kurzstreckentarif (short-trip rate), which entitles you to ride for up to 2km. It is only available if you flag down a moving taxi and request this special rate ( €3.00 ) before the driver has activated the regular meter. If you continue past 2km, regular rates apply to the entire trip. In the inner city there are also some two-seater pedicabs, assisted with electric engines, called Velotaxis, although they're mostly used by footsore tourists.

• bicycle

  Berlin is very bicycle friendly, and it's a good way to get to know the city - there are specially marked bike lanes everywhere. There are also plenty of bike rental shops.

• rail

  The U/S Bahn is the most efficient way to travel around Berlin. There are 10 U-Bahn and 13 S-Bahn lines which operate from 04:00 to just after 24:00, except at weekends and around public holidays when service continues through the night on all lines except the U4. Places further afield are served by the Regionalbahn (RB) and Regionalexpress (RE) lines.

• water

  The F10, which shuttles between Kladow and Wannsee, makes for quite a scenic trip, and you can use regular public transport tickets to board it. Ferries operate hourly all year, weather permitting, usually from about 09:00 to sunset.

• Disabled Travellers

  Overall, Berlin caters fairly well for the needs of the disabled ( Behinderte ), especially the wheelchair-bound. You'll find access ramps and/or lifts in many public buildings, including train stations, museums, theatres and cinemas. For specifics, check Mobidat (www.mobidat.net, in German), a databank evaluating 18,000 public places - hotels, restaurants, department stores, museums etc - for accessibility to the mobility-impaired. If your wheelchair breaks down, call 0180 111 4747 for 24-hour assistance. Newer hotels can offer rooms for disabled guests with extra-wide doors and spacious bathrooms.

  Getting around Berlin on public transport is possible but requires some planning. Four out of five buses and just over half of all trams have special ramps or lifts that enable the wheelchair-bound to get on and off without help. Look for the blue wheelchair symbol on the vehicles. Getting into U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains isn't as difficult as getting onto the platform itself. Only 31% of U-Bahn stations - compared to 70% of S-Bahn stations - have lifts and ramps. To assist blind passengers, stations are being equipped with grooved platform borders for better orientation. Upcoming station names are announced via loudspeakers on nearly all public transport vehicles.

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