Dominican Republic: Getting there & around

The cheapest way to get to the Dominican Republic by air is as part of an all-inclusive package tour; they're so cheap, in fact, that many people book time at an all-inclusive ticket and leave their hotel rooms empty part of the time while they explore the rest of the island. Whether you get your ticket a la carte or through a resort, there are direct flights from Europe and the Americas. Fares vary with the season, date of purchase and whims of the airline; shop around. Several cruise ship lines also have ports of call in the DR. There is a departure tax whether you're leaving by land or by sea.

There are two main crossing points between Haiti and the Dominican Republic. One is at Jimaní/Malpasse, on the southern route that links Port-au-Prince and Santo Domingo. The other, at Dajabón/Ouanaminthe, links Cap-Haïtian and Santiago. There is a third crossing near the centre of the island, at Elías Piña/Belladere, but foreigners generally give this one a miss.

Borders are generally open 08:00 - 16:00 , but don't cut it too close or you may be asked to come back the following day. Be sure to have all the necessary documents together to expedite the process.

Air Santo Domingo is the only carrier providing service within the Dominican Republic; its small planes may rattle like East German cars, but they're reliable to a fault. Fares generally run a little higher than US$50.00 between most destinations.

Buses are the preferred way to see the DR. They're cheap, convenient and, if you use Metro Bus or Carib Tours, air-conditioned and comfortable. There are also gua-guas , smaller and less-comfortable buses that are favoured by locals. They're a great way to scoot between locations in the same region, and fares rarely break a few Dominican pesos.

Car rental in the DR is fairly expensive. You must be older than 25 and have a credit card, valid driver's license and nerves of steel. There are few road rules in the Dominican Republic and those on the books are rarely enforced. Traffic police are notoriously corrupt; you may be stopped and 'fined' US$5.00 or US$10.00 for such offences as 'driving a dirty car' or 'failing to brake fast enough'. One LP writer was told simply, 'Give me money. I want to buy a beer.' It's best not to argue; tell the officer you're sorry, promise to never break the law again, and keep a small amount of money in your wallet for just such an emergency.

Renting a motorcycle might be a better idea, if you're comfortable driving on dirt roads. They're cheaper to rent - around US$16.00 a day - and they'll get you to places neither buses nor cars can go. As an added bonus, traffic police are less likely to hassle you on two wheels. Safety is a real issue on a motorbike in DR however, even moreso than in a car.