A Top Day in Santiago

Morning means squeezing out of the subway, finding a fresh copy of La Tercera and jockeying for the coveted corner divan in Café de la Barra. This polished nook near the art museum serves up eggs and fresh pastries. I pick a pain au chocolat to go with my latte.

If it's a clear day (check the paper's smog meter), I'll rent a bike to pedal shady Parque Forestal, through Bellavista to Cerro Cristóbal. The 323-metre climb takes time and a good deal of gear shifting. I take a long pause at the top to enjoy the view (read: breathe) before the breezy trip downhill.

If the smog-o-meter denies my way? A vineyard tour. One hour from Santiago and I'm in the countryside swishing a fruity vintage around my glass, searching for hidden notes of oak, mulberry and, of course, chocolate. Lunch here is a lazy gourmet affair involving cheeses, olives and expertly prepared Chilean classics like roast lamb or conger eel.

Next stop? A dose of populist pleasure. You don't have to be a futbol fanatic to have a blast at the Estadio Nacional (although steel-toe kickers help). I wear myself out stomping and yelling 'Chee-LAY!' in the direction of the smug competitor.

After some downtime there's dinner to be had. But where to? Leaving room for whimsy I head to Bellavista Patio, where a half-dozen 'in' restaurants flank an interior courtyard. It's abuzz with the city's beautiful people (of course) so my friends and I pass the wait with a pisco sour. A few hours and a fat bill later, we're ready to split.

What next? A folksy classic. We head downtown to La Piojera, a rambunctious drinking den with live strummers.

Author: Carolyn McCarthy

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