Argentina: Itineraries

With its rich Italian heritage, smoky old cafes, stately avenues and stunning architecture, Buenos Aires is best explored on foot. Argentina's greatest writer, Jorge Luis Borges (1899-1986), walked daily along pedestrianized Florida to the Biblioteca Nacional (now the Centro Nacional de la Música) where he worked as its director. Follow his route, starting at Borges' apartment at Maipú 944. Head south on Maipú and take a left on Paraguay. Have a coffee at Florida Garden, one of Borges' haunts and the intellectual cornerstone of the Manzana Loca (Crazy Block), named for the experimental art spaces that lined Florida in the 1960s. Head south on Florida to the splendid Galerías Pacífico, and see the art exhibits in the Centro Cultural Borges on the building's east side. Continuing south on Florida, stop at the Richmond café, the place where Borges met with other writers and artists who together published the literary magazine, Martín Fierro. Heading further south, glance right at Av Corrientes to see the Obelisco. At Av de Mayo turn left to walk around Plaza de Mayo. Head back to Florida (now Perú) and continue south past the Manzana de las Luces. Carry on to México, and hang a left to finish at the Centro Nacional de la Música.

Venturing off the beaten track in Argentina will take you to tiny villages, empty roads and rarely visited provincial parks that you'll have almost entirely to yourself. Begin in the wee capital of San Luis; from here you can visit the spectacular Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas. Hiking possibilites are excellent in the park, but the complex canyons require a tremendous sense of direction or, preferably, the assistance of a local guide. From here you can bus over to San Juan, rent a car and head for the hills: drive up to Barreal in the breathtaking Valle de Calingasta for hiking, rafting, climbing and land sailing beneath the country's highest peaks.

Head to beautiful Mendoza, Argentina's Andes-flanked wine capital. Following the grape-juice trail will give you a serious sampling of the country's finest libation. Squeeze in a day trip to Puenta del Inca and the lung-busting heights of the Cristo Redentor on the Chilean border. Take a crack-of-dawn bus to San Rafael, rent a bike and ride out to the city's wineries.