Argentina: Getting there & around

Getting There

• boat

  There are several river crossings between Uruguay and Buenos Aires that involve ferry or hydrofoil; some require combinations with buses. Ferries leave from the Buquebus terminal (tel: 4316 6500; www.buquebus.com) at Av Antártida Argentina and Córdoba.

  Daily ferries to/from Colonia in Uruguay cost around US$18-24.00 (one way, three hours) and hydrofoils around US$31-41.00 (one way, one hour), with direct bus connections to Montevideo (three hours more).

  Daily high-speed ferries between BA and Montevideo cost US$54-70.00 (one way, three hours).

  Arriving in Argentina by sea is uncommon; the classic route south along the Patagonian Andes is however, a worthwhile journey. Chilean company Navimag (www.navimag.com) operates the famous ferry from Puerto Montt, Chile (near Bariloche), down the length of Chilean Patagonia to Puerto Natales, Chile, near Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (west of Río Gallegos).

• plane

  Buenos Aires is Argentina's international gateway and easily accessible from North America, Europe and Australasia, as well as other capital cities in South America. Over 15 international carriers provide efficient air travel in and out of Argentina. A departure tax is payable on all international flights, but taxes and costs will be up in the air until the monetary crisis sorts itself out.

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Getting Around

• bus

  If you're doing any serious traveling around Argentina, you'll become very familiar with the country's excellent bus network, which reaches almost everywhere. Buses are fast, surprisingly comfortable and can be a rather luxurious experience. It's the way most Argentines get around. Larger luggage is stowed in the hold below, security is good and attendants always tag your bags (and should be tipped). If you have a long way to go - say Buenos Aires to Mendoza - overnight buses are the way to go, saving you a night's accommodations - and the day for fun.

  Hundreds of bus companies serve different regions but a few bigger lines really dominate the long-haul business: Andesmar (www.andesmar.com) and Chevallier(www.nuevachevallier.com) service the entire country; El Rápido International (www.elrapidoint.com.ar) makes trips to Buenos Aires, Mendoza, Córdoba and Rosario and has an International service to Santiago and Viña del Mar, Chile, and Lima, Peru. Via Bariloche (www.viabariloche.com.ar) serves most destinations in La Pampa province, the Lake District and Patagonia.

  Most cities and towns have a central bus terminal where each company has its own ticket window. Some companies post fares and schedules prominently, and the ticket price and departure time is always on the ticket you buy. Expect (Argentine) fast-food stalls, kiosks and newspaper vendors inside or near almost every terminal. There are generally few hotel touts or other traveler hassling types at terminals.

  This is where it gets fun. Better bus lines such as Chevallier and Andesmar (not to mention dozens of others) have modern Mercedes or Volvo coaches with spacious, cushy leather seats, large windows, air-conditioning, toilets, TVs and sometimes even an attendant serving coffee and snacks. Spend a little money and you'll be playing bingo for wine as you roll across the Pampas (no kidding!).

• car

  Because Argentina is so large, many parts are accessible only by private vehicle, despite the country's extensive public transport system. This is especially true in Patagonia, where distances are great and buses can be infrequent. Besides, with your own wheels, you can stop for photo ops or bathroom breaks at the side of the road whenever you want.

  If driving in Argentina, whether your own car or a rental, it's worthwhile being a member - you may already be - of the Automóvil Club Argentino (ACA tel: 011 4802 6061; www.aca.org.ar; Av del Libertador 1850, Palermo, Buenos Aires), which has offices, service stations and garages throughout the country, offering free road service and towing in and around major destinations.

• bicycle

  Partnered with camping, cycling can cut the costs of your trip fourfold. And of course you'll see more details and meet more curious locals.

  Racing bicycles are suitable for some paved roads, but these byways are often narrow; a todo terreno (mountain bike) is safer and more convenient, allowing you to use the unpaved shoulder and the very extensive network of graveled roads throughout the country. Argentine bicycles are improving in quality but are still not equal to their counterparts in Europe or the US.

  There are two major drawbacks to long distance bicycling in Argentina. One is the wind, which in Patagonia can slow your progress to a crawl. The other is Argentine motorists: on many of the country's straight, narrow, two-lane highways, they can be a serious hazard to bicyclists. Make yourself as visible as possible, and wear a helmet. Of course you'll need to bring an adequate repair kit and extra parts (and the mental know-how to use them), some good directions (unpaved roads on maps can be unreliable) and enough food and water till the next town. In Patagonia, a windbreaker and warm clothing are essential. Don't expect much traffic on some back roads.

• train

  Buenos Aires' rail network services the suburbs surrounding the city area, while the Subte (Underground) is South America's oldest subway and is still a quick, efficient and easy way to get around.

  For getting around the capital, the only train that really comes in handy is the Mitre line (running between Retiro and Tigre), which makes getting from Retiro to Las Cañitas or Belgrano's Barrio China (China Town) a snap.

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