Cambodia
The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our Travel Links.
Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
I read in the guidebook that arranging a visa for Vietnam is done very easily in Phnom Penh, but didn't know that it could be done in almost every guesthouse and travel agency. I thought it would still entail a lot of paperwork with embassies and the like and arranged my visa beforehand. You could state explicitly that it's a breeze to have your Phnom Penh guesthouse take care of it.
Paul de Vries, The Netherlands (Nov 05)
The trip from Siem Reap to the Thai border was crazy for us. We went by taxi and were bogged several times having to climb out one side of the car because the other side the doors were sealed in by mud!! We were up to our knees in mud trying to push the car out. Without being informed we were taken to a border not used by Westeners and then when we finally boarded a bus for Bangkok the trip was over eight hours instead of four as we had been taken to a border point much further up the border line. The trip was certainly eventful but it would be worth letting people know that it can me a challenging and frustrating one also during which time you are provided with no information as to what is going on!!
Tamika Ross, Australia (Oct 05)
If you intend to cross the Lao-Cambodian border, the only place to buy your Cambodian visa is at the Cambodian embassy in Vientiane. There are two options:
1) Normal visa; costs US$20, takes 3 days to issue.
2) Express visa; costs US$30, will be issued the same day. Submission of application forms between 7.30am and 10.30am, and you pick up your visa at 4pm
Janne Rueness, Norway (Sep 05)
The international departure tax at Siem Reap is now $25 USD. Make sure your dollar bills are crisp and new - one of our bills had a crease in the corner. The airport officials wouldn't accept this 'old' bill.
Cherie Darnel, USA (July 05)
Travel Tips
When you get to Phnom Penh, there will be a lot of tuk tuk drivers swarming you and wanting to drive you to your hotel. This can be a bit scary, but donā??t panic - let one guy take care of you but watch where he is taking your bags. It's probably a good idea to have a guesthouse / hotel in mind otherwise the driver will take you to the one he touts for which isn't a good idea. If you are not sure where you want to stay, just tell the tuk tuk driver that you want to go to the riverside, then you can get out and look at some of the accommodation along the riverfront (this is where most guesthouses are). The tuk tuk driver will probably offer to be your guide whilst you are in Phnom Penh - this is up to you, but we decided to use our tuk tuk driver to be our guide (as he seemed like an honest reliable sort of guy and he spoke good English), and it worked out really well. He came to pick us up the next day, we told him what sights we wanted to see and he worked out the order in which he thought we should see them. We agreed a price before we started and everything went well.
Jane Macleod, Vietnam (Apr 06)
Visitors are not supposed to enter the Royal Palace with slippers, shorts or sleeveless t-shirts. My sister who went there in a conservative sleeveless tee had to purchase an unwanted souvenior tee (US$3) at a stall near the ticket booth to get in! Lockers are provided for cameras (you get to keep the key) if you do not want to pay the US$2 camera fee. Unfortunately, the whole place 'shuts down' for lunch at 11am (reopens at 2pm), & when we left the place at 11:30am (just before they were about to close the exit), we couldn't get back our camera in the locker (since the main gate was also closed), & we had to wait till 2pm to retrieve it. If you don't want to take photos but do not trust the lockers, it might be a good idea to 'smuggle' your camera in. Nevertheless, I have witnessed a tourist who whipped out his camera in the palace, & was approached by the staff there demanding to see his 'camera ticket'. He didn't have one, & so paid US$2 on the spot for the privilege.
Heng Ngee Mok, Singapore (Jan 06)
When we travelled Cambodia we changes all our dollars to riel only to find out that almost all restaurants and hotels and stores in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap write their prices in dollars and when you pay in riel you lose money. So I would advice people not to change to much money into riel.
In Siem Reap there is a childrens' hospital run by a Swiss doctor. It depends on fundings and is totally free of charge for the families that come there. One problem for them is the lack of blood donors and they depend largely on tourists giving blood since most Cambodians are pretty suspicious of hospitals. It's basic but very clean, the staff are very professional and speak good English and they only use materials once.
Anna-Karin Johansson, Sweden (Jan 06)
Another very good thing to do in Siem Reap, other than visiting the astonishing temples, is to give blood in the Kantha Bopha Childrens' Hospital. You cannot miss it, it's on the way to the temples and three "flags" (don't know the English word, they hang across the street, everybody has to pass under them) tell you, what the hospital needs (love, blood and money...). So if you can spare half an hour and are in good health and not in a risk group, please go and give blood. You don't need to worry about "third world conditions"; the place was founded by a Swiss doctor and the standards are more than Western.
I have read an interview with that doctor in one of the Swiss newspapers and the thing which most hurt him about his work was that there are so many tourists going to the temples of Angkor each day and so few are either giving blood or money (the day the interviewer was there, there were 6 people who gave blood...). On top of it you get the best souvenir one can get: thankfulness and a t-shirt you cannot buy anywhere.
Irene Bernhard, Switzerland (Nov 05)
I recently returned from Cambodia and thought I would let you know that there are in fact 4 cash points in Phnom Penh. There is one inside the Canadia Bank and one outside and also there are two in a bank on the main strip by the Mekong river. Beware though - this cash machine only accepts Visa or Mastercard. The Canadia Bank allows you to withdraw up to US$500.
Jade Noble, UK (Oct 05)
Finally there are ATM machines in Phnom Penh. At least there is one that I saw on Sisowath Way, along the riverfront, a few blocks down the street from the Royal Palace. It is brand new as in just installed a month ago and it has an armed guard sitting next to it 24 hours a day for your protection.
Michael Lamb, USA (Sep 05)
Buy your food, water, film rolls etc in Siem Reap and not in Angkor Wat, because otherwise you will pay 3 times the price.
Anna Verkade, The Netherlands (Sep 05)
Saying something nice about rice makes one many friends - the Khmer are more fierce than the Japanese about this, I've found. They claim to not use chemical fertilisers and be that as it may, if you say their rice beats that of Vietnam and Thailand you've made some friends. Not to be abused, of course.
Gustaf Löfgren, Sweden (Aug 05)
Siem Reap Zoo - as an animal lover I found this very confronting. I could accept that conditions were not the same as those in Australia, however some sites were too much. Tigers in very small cages with live ducks waiting to be snacked on, bored monkeys pulling their hair out to pass the time and the stench of a rotting tortoise corpse to name a few. However, even though many species of animal were all in one pen there were some interesting animals. I am not sure if I can promote this experience. Part of me likes to think, more tourists = better facilities, however I fear the money would benefit people running this less than adequate facility before the animals.
KJ Braat, Australia (Aug 05)
Bring plenty of new $1 USD bills. These are accepted widely around Siem Reap and the Angkor complex. The $1 seems to be the default cost of many trinkets and moto rides around town!
Cherie Darnel, USA (Jul 05)
Moving About
A tip for cyclists - In Cambodia, having decided we needed to give our bikes a good wash after a few days on dusty roads (a task we were not looking forward to after a long day), we came across a car - (and moto) wash. Our bikes were thoroughly washed and chamoised and the dollar we gave them for two bikes was clearly very welcome. We ended up doing this several times (the dollar was always appreciated) and customs at home in Australia were very impressed by our spotless, decontaminated treadlies.
Mark Bailey, Australia (Apr 06)
Be careful when getting in/out from cyclos. The mudguard covering the the two front wheels is very sharp at the edges. Your exposed leg below the knees can easily brush against the sharp edges thereby getting a nasty cut.
Anonymous (Feb 06)
Electric bicycles are a great way to see the temples at Angkor. The cost is $4 for a 12 hour day and they can be left at the electric bicycle stations at major temples (which stock replacement batteries). They are quiet and travel about 20km/hr. They can be taken as far as the Roulos temples.
Joan Tornquist, Australia (Jan 06)
If you take a taxi in Cambodia always check how many people they want to put into one car. If you don't complain / object they will just squeeze you into the car with 8 people!!
Anna Verkade, The Netherlands (Sep 05)
Apparently, guesthouses in one city who know you're taking the boat or bus to the next popular stop will call ahead and give your name to their partners there, who then send their moto drivers to the dock or station and wait there for you to arrive and spot your name on their signboards. My guesthouse owner told me there were multiple drivers waiting at the dock in PP with my name on their boards, but our boat got in late so some had left. You may want to tell people they're not required to stay at the guesthouse that's shouting their name wildly as soon as they step off the boat.
Amanda Peskin, Japan (Aug 05)
I took the boat from Siem Riep to Battembang, and please, please warn people not to do that at present. The river is nearly dry, but boats go anyway. People are desperate to earn money. The two guys driving the boat spent most of their time in the river trying to get us off sandbanks. The fishermen are really suffering, as there is hardly any water for them to fish, and the big boats destroy nets and their livelihoods. The banks of the river are also deteriorating. Not good for the environment. People should take the buses instead during the dry season, and the dry season seems to be very dry this year.
Margareta Langbacka Walker, Vietnam (Feb 05)
Scams & Warnings
At the bus station in Poipet there are a number of bus companies offering bus travel to Siem Reap and Battambang. Prices are clearly marked, but compared to the rest of Cambodia, rather pricey. We got on a bus to Siem Reap but went to Sisophon only, to avoid late night arrival ($4 p.P.). The bus was to arrive in Siem Reap very late (scam bus?). Worse off were those on a package bus ride from Bangkok who waited at the bus station for hours and hours (definitely scam!).
Tammo Rieg, Germany (May 06)
At the beginning of March, an 18-year old female tourist was attacked on the main road near Banteay Srey in Siem Reap, in the Angkor Archeological Park. She was riding a bicycle in the late afternoon and was stopped by a gang of young men and robbed of possessions, clothing and her bicycle. A second group of men later stopped her along the same road as she tried to get back to Siem Reap and she was assaulted and raped. Since the police have not found the culprits, they are still at large and could strike again. This information should be spread, to warn all tourists and others concerned that that it is not safe to walk or cycle on your own, even in the Archeological Park. Please pass on this information to your friends and colleagues.
Anonymous (Mar 06)
The great cheap tickets from Bangkok to Siem Reap bus scam (CAMBODIA): The new scam has been modified, the cheap tickets from Bangkok to Siem Reap being sold at 400 Baht are an 8 hour journey by bus to Poipet from Bangkok, followed by a bus transfer and Siem Reap trip for another 8 hours. TOTAL: 16 HOURS. They do this intentionally! By the time you arrive, its 2am and they leave you no choice but to "stay" in their Partner hotel". The operator will even say that Lonely Planet is making ridiculous claims about the travel time and is lying and is promoting dangerous driving. The thing to do is to take a bus from Bangkok to Poipet for 4 hours, 100 Baht at any terminal in Bangkok, then take the Poipet to Siem Reap route by taxi (Toyota Camry) for US$40, it's airconditioned and comfy.
Arvie de Vera, Philipines (Nov 05)
A begging trick around the Angkor temples is the fun yet persistent children giving you flowers and rings made from grass. It is all fine until you get up and leave at which point they make clear 'I gave you flower, now you give me a dollar/buy something from me' (one very young girl even saying, in fluent English, 'if you do not accept this flower you do not like me and you do not like Cambodia'). It's all harmless of course, but I saw several tourists falling for it and being uncomfortable untangling themselves from the kids afterwards, so people might want to read about it in advance.
Paul de Vries, The Netherlands (Nov 05)
Recently I wanted to travel from Don Det in Laos to Strung Treng in Cambodia over land. I purchased a bus/boat ticket to do exactly that for US$10. At the Laos border we were charged US$2 for a stamp in our passport and the officials were really aggressive with us. Also at this point we have to change transport to a minibus, run by a Cambodian man. We drove to the Cambodian border crossing and was charged another US$2 for the stamp in our passport before we could continue. The driver took us as far as the river crossing to Strung Treng and demanded more money to get on the boat. We obviously disputed it because our ticket said that was included but it was futile and he turned really aggressive with us and threw all our bags out of the minibus still shouting.
I don't know how many other unsuspecting souls have purchased this ticket and had the same experience but it wasn't a pleasant introduction to Cambodia and we ended up having to pay extra, although only a couple of dollars.
Kelly Hardwick, UK (Aug 05)
Today I visited the National Museum in Phnom Penh. We entered the museum compound via a side gate and strolled straight through in the museum foyer. There we were approached by the ticket checker/guide and asked if we had a ticket. We did not have a ticket as we had not passed a ticket gate. He conveniently took us to a desk in the foyer and sold us two ticket stubs. We did not get the whole ticket.
Exiting the museum compound we passed the ticket office by the main gate and saw that only they were able to sell tickets. I then checked my ticket stubs and found that although they were dated that day they were out of sequence and of a number far earlier than the ones being sold at the desk. What had happened was that the ticket checker had sold us used stubs and pocketed the cash for himself. I complained to the ticket seller that the guy was defrauding the museum but "was not being understood".It disgusts me that in such a poor country as Cambodia officials are lining their pockets with money that should be serving a good cause.
Chris Simon, USA (May 05)
I would like to inform you about a new-ish scam that has emerged (I think recently) that is different than that of the "Great Bus Scam" that you talk about in the 'SE Asia on a Shoestring' LP. After having recieved much advice from a friend (as well as your book), my friends and I took great care when booking our bus trip from Bangkok to Siem Riep. For one, we knew not to get our visas until we got to the Cambodian border, and to avoid dealing with the tour companies when dealing with such matters. Unfortunately, there is a new scam and it seems that everyone is in on it. Firstly, a 'new' (and very fake by all appearances) border town (called Daung) has been opened where 'at the border' you have no choice but to pay US$40 for the visa. Moreover, they claim that their bus is broken that day and they pile you into uncovered pick-up trucks for 8 hours until you get to Siem Riep. An experience, yes - in retrospect. Frustrating and annoying, at the time - quite! Especially when we had paid for a bus service.
Matt Harding, Canada (Jan 05)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
A tip for Phnom Penh - the bat tree! Near the river there is a big tree totally full of giant bats - I estimate 1000-2000. They are there all day long - I was there at 4 pm and I saw them fly around the tree, up to 200-300 at a time in broad daylight, totally amazing for a nature geek as myself! It's close to Wat Phnom on Sisowat Quay, between Phlauv 90 and 94 (closest to 90). Check it out! It's worth a visit - certainly the coolest thing I saw in Phnom Penh.
Rasmus Juel Hansen, Denmark (Apr 05)
One of the best attractions in Cambodia are the people. They are so friendly and speak excellent English so make sure you stop and give them some of your time, particularly the children. I found this was a particularly good tactic when the children are trying to sell you things around the Angkor temples. I ended up helping them with their English homework which was much more rewarding than buying their postcards.
Nick Mason, UK (Nov 04)
One really great thing to do while in Siem Rep (Angkor Wat) is give blood at the childrens hospital. You can't miss the hospital since it's on the road to Angkor as you leave Siem Rep. It's a very clean and professional hospital with new needles and a very professional doctor. After giving blood I had the chance to sit in the waiting room and communicate in the language of touches and smiles, with these parents who had walked for 2-3 days to have their children seen.
John Laney, USA (Oct 04)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
We caught a government taxi to Siam Reap and it was 2hrs into this journey that we had our first 'major' Cambodian incident. A bridge was rather worryingly termed as 'broken', and there nothing to do but wait for repairs to be undertaken. The ensuing backlog of vehicles piled high with goods, people, pigs, ducks and chickens made for some interesting sights as I walked to the defective bridge to see what was going on. I am a structural engineer by trade so do have more than a passing interest in incidents like this, but was somewhat taken aback to see a team of Cambodians trying to fix what was clearly a very broken bridge, with little else other than their bare hands. On closer inspection it appeared that one of the main steel support beams just seemed to have vanished, resulting in a significant portion of deck plate unsupported on one side. I'm sure the chaps in attendance knew what they were doing, but for some reason I wasn't convinced that they were ' Cambodia 's Crack Rapid Response Bridge Repair Unit'.
After 2 hours in the blistering sun, small vehicles were finally ushered across the bridge, and our taxi duly jockeyed for position and negotiated the 'repaired' structure at a snails pace. As we drove over the defective area of the bridge, the taxi just lunged down on the right, then gradually corrected itself as we continued forwards. I looked back out of the rear screen to see the car behind us go over the bridge and was quite horrified to see what was happening...the part of the deck plate that had lost some of its' support was still only partially supported, and the weight of any vehicle traversing it was causing it to bend like hell on one side, hence the 'lunging' sideways action. The plate bent viciously, easily a 200mm dip in its centre, and I was just left shaking my head wondering how long this would continue before there were further failures of the bridge members. Anyway the important thing was that we were the other side of the bridge now, and on our way to Siam Reap.
Andy Hurst, UK (Jan 06)
I imagine you have already had some wild feed back about a new entry/exit point on the northwest Cambodian-Thai border? Our story is not unique by now but blew us away as it was happening. We booked a mini-bus connection in Siem Reap and using the LP, understood that we would exit Cambodia via Poipet, in the west. A little more than half way to Poipet, we turned off the main road and we believed we would be skirting around a toll station as is often done to avoid extra expense. The bus was left over from the 1970's, and was in its third reincarnation, I think! It broke a rear end spring along the way, had seats as comfortable as concrete blocks, and suspension that made every pothole feel like a land mine had just been struck.
After one hour we were suspicious. After two hours, we were annoyed and having running one-sided arguments with the driver and co-pilot, who spoke no English. After the third hour, we thought were in the deep end for sure. Being a no nonsense Australian, I had already made the bus stop twice to get the driver to explain where we were going. It clearly wasn't Poipet! We had consulted some French passengers' fold out map which seemed very detailed, but the driver kept pointing to a place on it where there was no town. Re-reading the new Lonely Planet every five minutes to see the same explanation that there were not yet any other border crossings made us very weary and worried. The road was horrendous, villages were sparse, and the 'Danger! Mines!' signs blossomed like deadly flowers at regular intervals on the road sides. We had contemplated getting off and going independently several times but there was very little traffic to offer hope, much less a lift!
I tucked a US$100 note into my shoes as a bribe for the welcoming party who were, in our minds, waiting to greet us at the hostage drop off point. The LP makes it clear (yeah, thanks guys!) that this region is under some control of the 'old school' followers of regimes past. Finally, after almost seven hours, we saw signs of civilization: power lines and houses other than farmer's villages. It was the border, and we were all relieved to see it was true. We then imagined that we would be made to just miss the border crossing time as it was almost 5 pm. A night in a hotel at exorbitant prices seemed to be on the cards. At five minutes to five, our passports were stamped, the heavens opened and thoroughly saturated us, and we crossed a rickety bridge into Thailand. We were greeted by a kindly and well spoken Thai gentleman who ushered us to one of two well appointed (read: luxurious) minibuses. We set off at a million miles an hour in comfort, got to Bangkok at 10 pm and couldn't believe we had come so far, through a place not marked on the map, unscathed, if not unruffled! Wow! Next time book me on the Poipet run, thanks, Driver!! If only we had asked when we booked!
Kevin Hoschke, Australia (Jul 05)
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