Greater Micronesia
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Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
Majuro, Marshall islands: The international departure tax from Majuro airport is now USD$20.
Guam Airport is still a terrible place to get stuck on a long layover, which is unfortunately quite likely for many connetions on Continental Micronesia. The airport lacks a locker or left-luggage facility (a critical omission in my opinion), and the ATMs are all past customs (ie. none in the gate area.) You're also at the mercy of expensive taxis unless you want to walk from the airport.
If you are light on your carry-ons and have your bags checked all the way through and want to do a cheap walking tour, walk left on the road going in front of the airport (ie. in the direction of Hagatna). You'll get to the first major stop lighted intersection (Marine Highway) in about three-fourths of a mile. Go right there and walk another half mile or so to the Kmart. From there you can take the trolleys and shopping buses for about USD$2 a ride anywhere in the Tumon loop. This incluces the major beach and shopping areas. These services stop running around 10:30pm.
Rusty Cartmill, USA (Nov 00)
Travel Tips
ATMs are found at most major towns in ANZ banks. None at the airport yet. They are in a small room which is guarded and only one person allowed in the room at a time-so your PIN is safe.
Tara Tuatai, Australia (Aug 03)
The Yapseed Distance Education Training Center in Colonia has 30 new Internet-connected computers open to the public, for free, on weekdays. (Get there before 2:30 pm, when schools let out and the lab fills with kids.) A nice bonus: you can print pages for 5 cents each. The lab is at the end of the road past the Traders' Ridge Resort.
Jerry Peek, USA (Apr 02)
Remember that Palau gets a lot of rain! If you are going diving on day trips our of Koror, take a lightweight plastic or nylon raincoat (you can buy them there but at Micronesian imported goods prices). The dive boats are fast and relatively open to the elements so if it is windy and raining, you will get very, very cold and miserable without some protection. It's lovely when the sun shines though! For the same reason you may want to take some rainproof footwear for trudging around town - it can get a bit muddy for sandals.
Dairy products generally are not widely used in Palau so apart from UHT milk do not expect much!
Martin Searle, Thailand (Dec 01)
In Yap, special tours arranged by the hotels to see local dancing are $40 a person. Our dive guides said to go March 1-3 (Yap Day) and see all the dancing for free. Hotels are often fully booked during the festivals.
A new museum, small but very nicely done out is the Epitson Museum, with interesting shell collections, artifacts, a café upstairs and a nice gift shop.
Ian Parkinson & Lisa Martin, Malaysia (Jul 00)
Bank of Guam in Kolonia, Pohnpei, has an outside ATM that is linked to the worldwide Cirrus (MasterCard) and Plus (Visa) networks. It's probably the only globally-linked ATM in a 700-mile radius. It tacks on a $1.50 charge to withdrawals.
Don't take pictures of the US Embassy in Kolonia (it's tempting because the building is so small, about the size of an overgrown trailer!). Because of general worldwide terrorism concerns, guards have been instructed to approach and bring in for questions anyone who does.
The tourist office in Tofol, Kosrae is now open only Monday to Thursday due to government cutbacks.
Rusty Cartmill, USA (Feb 00)
Rota's a great place to relax, do a little diving and see some local culture. And if you make a few friends you may easily find yourself being invited to a party with your new found friend and 70 or 80 of their closest relatives. And the Chamorros throughout the islands know how to party - tonnes of red rice, kelaguin (usually octopus or chicken cooked by marinating in citrus juices), fish and a couple of roasted pigs. And be sure to try the breadfruit donuts, deep fried banana, pickled papaya and the young coconut if you have a chance. The parties are probably the most cultural aspect of the Chamorros I've seen outside of the local superstitions.
A warning though: the local fruit and produce is fabulous, but you aren't going to find it in a grocery store. The island is covered with the best bananas, yet the stores sell mouldy bananas imported from South America. It doesn't make sense, but that's the way it is. You want papaya, mango, banana, fresh fish? You need to meet somebody, because everyone either has a small farm or has a cousin who does, and other than poaching, there's no other way you're going to get it. A lot of the local restaurants suck or are just not worth the money. Save your money and get out there, talk it up and make some friends. Trust me, once they get to know you, you'll never go hungry again.
And one last thing, go out, have a few drinks and sing some karaoke. It sounds ridiculous, but outside of parties, it's the biggest pastime on the island. Not to mention a great way to meet people.
C Laird, USA (Jan 00)
Anyone who plans to go to the Marshall Islands, whether to Majuro, Ebeye or elsewhere, should definitely bring their own water. The systems these islands have in place do not produce clean drinking water. As a matter of fact, Ebeye and some of the other islands that are part of the Kwajalein Atoll have had water catchment and storage systems donated to them in an effort to provide enough clean water, but these systems are (even after only a couple of years) already going downhill.
George Gorski-Popiel (May 99)
The capital city of Guam, Agana, is now called Hagatna. The bay fronting the Chamorro Village is still called Agana Bay. I was told that Hagatna was the original name before the Japanese came in 1941.
Paul Binford, Japan (Mar 99)
Saipan: the scenic beaches along Beach Road, as well as the picturesque Micro Beach, are home to fecal coliform bacteria which sometimes rises to unhealthy levels. Before swimming in these areas, it is wise to check the conditions (it's usually published in the local paper). You'll notice there are not many people swimming in these picture perfect waters. The San Jose dump, breeder of this problem, is slated to be closed in the near future, but we continue to wait.
Deborah E Fisher, Micronesia (Mar 99)
Travellers venturing out alone on Peleliu Island, Palau, should be advised to bring a compass and map. The multitude of interconnecting, unmarked, indistinguishable roads make getting lost all too easy. This I know well.
Dave Casey, USA (Jan 98)
Moving About
It is worthwhile making a car reservation in advance for Guam (you really need one to enjoy the island!). By the time I arrived most car rental companies did not have many cars left. So there was no room for bargaining and I ended up paying the high rack rates.
Aike van Beekum, Netherlands (Sep 02)
Air Nauru flights to Pohnpei are now limited; to Guam/Manila suspended completely at the moment.
The Air Kiribati/Aloha Airlines charter from Honolulu to Christmas Island now departs Honolulu early Sunday morning, which is Monday on Christmas Island.
Glyn Thomas, UK (May 01)
Kosrae now has a taxi system that functions like Pohnpei's, with non-metered zone fares, radio dispatch and ride-sharing. The Tradewind Motel is one of the bases for the taxis. As in Pohnpei, you can call and have a taxi pick you up and drop you off and pay a flat fare, but expect to share the ride with others also going in your direction. The flat fare is charged per person (like a bus or subway), so if there are two of you and the fare is $1, it would cost $1 each. This takes a little getting used to if you're used to private taxis where there's a cost advantage to two or three sharing.
Roads on Kosrae are still of overwhelmingly poor quality, with plenty of potholes and muddy stretches. They remind me of Cambodia. Expect speed limits of 15 to 25 island-wide (not that it's easy to drive faster). A $3 million paving project is now underway to improve the road in sections around the causeway and heading to Tofol.
Rusty Cartmill, USA (Feb 00)
Don't overlook frequent flyer awards as a way to beat the high cost of air travel in Micronesia, especially if your home country is the USA or Canada. You can earn Continental OnePass miles now not only on Continental, but also on Northwest and America West airlines, as well as Alitalia and Air France. There are also heaps of non-airline mileage opportunities, especially in the US.
Micronesia is considered part of Asia for OnePass award deals and you get a free stopover on the most direct route if you want. So, with some studying of the fine print and luck on seat availability, you can put together some pretty incredible deals. For example, in January 2000 I booked a round trip from Manila to Kosrae, taking in Pohnpei along the way. It only cosy 20,000 miles ('peak season' would be 25,000). Those 20,000 are worth $333-$400, by my calculations, for a ticket that was quoted at $1200!
With the award, you could travel within Micronesia or to/from places as far flung as Manila, Hong Kong, Bali and Cairns (most connections are in Guam). Also, Continental offers a 'mileage purchase' option that allows you to buy up to 20% of the miles needed for an award at $25 (plus 7.5% tax) per 1000 miles, which is useful if you're just short. And elite members earn double miles on paid flights. This is a case where spending miles - if you've got them - usually gives a much better deal then spending dollars.
Rusty Cartmill (Jan 00)
After eight months without air connections, the Island of Palau can once again be reached by light plane. Belau Air has a daily service from Koror for $70 return. As of October 1999 there are no rental cars on the island but Belau Air can arrange for a car and driver for about the same price. Apparently too many tourists were getting lost on the unmarked roads.
Charles Hood (Oct 99)
The departure tax has been increased from US$15 to US$20.
V E Janicke, Germany (Mar 99)
Palau: Paradise Air, located in Koror, is now out of business and as a result any air transportation to any outside island in Palau is impossible. This is a result of a Paradise Air plane crash in November and a pending investigation into the disaster. The only transportation is the state ferries, which leave the Fisheries dock in Koror. Each state has a ferry and the schedule should be available from the individual state office. Be aware of the weather conditions: if the sea conditions are bad, the ferry does not travel.
Bob Bergevin (Mar 99)
Scams & Warnings
In Guam there are now virtually no street signs due to the "super" typhoon that hit in December 2002. The locals kept telling me, "They all blew away. Sorry" Navigation is now done by landmarks only.
Marcella Sakert, USA (Aug 03)
Talofofo falls on Guam (one of the island's top attractions!) and Yokoi's cave are temporarily closed as a result of damage caused by recent tropical storms. The cable car is not running and staff disallows you to go down by foot. However staff told me that they are planning to reopen again in the near future. Please call ahead before making the trip!
The sea around Guam is not as clean as it used to be. The local newspaper states which beaches are unsuitable for swimming due to pollution. Tumon is ok for swimming, although the beach has suffered from tropical storms as well.
It is worthwhile making a car reservation in advance (you really need one to enjoy the island!!!). By the time I arrived most car rental companies did not have many cars left. So there was no room for bargaining and ended up paying the high rack rates.
Aike van Beekum, Netherlands (Sep 02)
One of our party was bitten by a dog in Palauduring the day on the main road not far from the hotel. Apparently the dog just came from behind and attacked with no warning. We found out, whilst talking to local people there, that this sort of event was not considered uncommon, for tourists or locals.
We went on several boat trips of one sort or another, mostly without problems. We did however have one trip where it was found, some way out from land, that the two boats had about 30 people, seven non-swimmers and only 5 life jackets between them. It might be worth warning people that do want life jackets to ensure they have an adequate supply on the boat before starting out.
Rita Whiting, UK (Jan 02)
Warning: some roads on Guam have a lot of coral in them. When wet, these roads become more slippery than ice, and there is very little warning. Locals realise this but still crash; tourists don't necessarily find out until it's too late!
David Groom, UK (Apr 99)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Do not forget to go to the excellent 'War in the Pacific Memorial Park' visitor's center in Guam, which is free and very informative if you are interested in history. They have an excellent bookshop with books on the War in the Pacific as well!
Aike van Beekum, Netherlands (Sep 02)
The tiny island of Tinian is the northern most inhabited island in the Mariana group. The island has played a disproportionately significant role in world affairs being the refuelling point in the middle of nowhere for both Magellan and Drake on their circumnavigations of the globe and the take off point for the planes that bombed Nagasaki and Hiroshima.
There are too many great things to say about this little island, but here are a few:
- free camping everywhere (and free showers and toilets). Camp anywhere - the beach, the hills, wherever. I camped right outside the five star casino (because I thought that might be cool) and no one cared and I found it really safe, no one bothers you.
- everything is within walking distance.
- amazing diving off the Grotto, a submerged cave about 20 metres underwater and just about everywhere else, the visibility is insane.
- great little beaches, try finding cowrie shells on the snow white sand at little Lam Lam Beach.
- check out the 'green flashes' that happen at sunset, like equatorial auroras.
I couldn't have been made to feel more welcome anywhere!
James Tobin, Australia (Sep 01)
There are some impressive caves on Saipan not mentioned in the LP guide. The best known is Kalabera Cave which is located past the Bird Island lookout. Take the dirt road for about a mile and turn right on a dirt road (you can see a big green garbage can about 10 metres in; park and walk the rest of the 20 yards to the cave). Unfortunately there are no landmarks or signs. Supposedly there are ancient photographs at the bottom, but it's a long way down. In addition, at one time it was used by the Spanish as a prison for Chamorros. Another cave is on John Reyes' private property. Take the same road but pass Kalabera cave and continue for another mile or so. On the right is a homemade pavillion and a banana patch. John is usually around and is hoping to develop his cave as a tourist attraction.
I believe that the hands down most beautiful sight on the island is Forbidden Island. Finding the trail is difficult. Go past Lao Lao Bay golf course and at the end of the road, turn right. Go to the end of that road and turn left. Continue on past the quarry (the quarry is the turn to the right; you want to stay to the left). The dirt road will wind up and up until you get to a high voltage fence project which is well marked. Park, then walk about 50 to 100 yards. If you're lucky, there'll be a trail marker on your right. If not, it's about halfway down the road. Go into the jungle and look for the concrete foundation of a long ruined house. Off the back corner you'll notice the trail. Take the trail through the jungle and you will emerge with tremendous views of Forbidden Island.
Working your way down one of two paths will require some exertion and climbing. It is truly stunning scenery. Once down on the beach, head for the point nearest Forbidden - there's a small cave and rocks where you can put your stuff. Be very careful about crossing as the currents can get very strong and the depth is deceiving. Also, the currents and tide change, making what was once crossable water, uncrossable. In fact, I strongly suggest not crossing at all. There's some nice snorkelling in the water between you and Forbidden but be careful of the currents. The hike down takes at least 30 minutes and going up is longer, maybe 35 to 40. Be sure to bring water and leave in time to get back in the light.
Deborah E Fisher, Micronesia (Mar 99)
World War II history buffs travelling to the Republic of Palau in Micronesia should definitely take time out for a day trip to the beautiful island of Peliliu. History abounds there. Many of the Japanese and American tanks, planes and shipwrecks have been left as they were at the close of the war. There are also war memorials there for the Americans and Japanese who lost their lives. Peliliu is a short boat or plane ride from Palau's capital city, Koror. I recommend taking a boat since the route will take you through the beautiful Rock Islands with many opportunities for snorkelling and diving, including shipwreck diving. Your best bet for an enjoyable trip is to find a local guide who will take you from Koror to Peliliu and hook you up with a guide there to show you the sights. I do not recommend trying to make this trek on your own just for the fact that the roads on Peliliu are winding and unmarked making it confusing for first-timers. Finding a guide is fairly easy. Any of the tourist information people at the airport upon your arrival in Palau will be able to direct you to a reliable source or a stop at the small store at Koror's local T-dock will render favourable results. If you are staying at one of the big resorts (Niko, Palau Pacific Resort, Sunshine Villa) you should have no problem obtaining information on guides touring Peliliu. Palauans are friendly people so if you run into a problem, just ask questions. Most speak some English and/or Japanese.
Caroline Crowell, USA (Sep 98)
Fananang Island (Blue Lagoon Island), Chuuk Lagoon: this island lies about 10km directly east of Etan Island and is no more than 50 square metres in surface area, including 16 coconut trees. It contains a small hut sleeping about six people and is maintained by two to three residents on the island. In addition, there is space for about two tents and bedding for about a further four people. There is a small toilet and generator which is turned on and off according to need. Blue Lagoon Divers run the island and often use it as a lunch spot during surface intervals. Odds are that you will have the island to yourself if you choose to go and there is nothing finer than gazing at the stars and sitting on a chair in the surf after the generator is turned off. There are two hitches however: if there are a lot of dive parties around during lunch, they can very quickly make the island crowded and noisy, which tends to spoil this idyllic beauty, and; the price: $65 a day per person - really very steep for sleeping in a tent. They also tacked on an additional charge of $20 for the transfer to the island.
Rod Szasz & Chao Chang, Canada (Jun 98)
The highlight of our trip was a kayak tour of the Rock Islands. The tour we took was a full day one and included stops at numerous caves and islands. The best stop was of another Jelly Fish Lake, not the tourist one, but a much cleaner, less crowded one. This place was incredible with much better visibility in the water and many more jelly fish. It is a good hike over sharp coral so be sure to take good shoes. Also bring your snorkel gear for the numerous places to stop and snorkel.
Tim Morton (Mar 98)
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