Sri Lanka
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Travel Tips
I have just completed one week's stay in Sri Lanka as part of six months travelling. I am traveling on my own and many of my friends including the travel agents advised me against Sri Lanka as a lone female traveller given the current security situation. In this regard I experienced no troubles, however I was advised by the locals to stay away from the north at times of elections.
I confined my trip to the southern coast and Kandy. the majority of people I met have been so lovely and helpful, although females travelling on their own is not for the faint hearted - lots of assumptions and many unwanted advances are made. As long as you stay in busy areas it appears to be ok (I didn't dare go out at night though!).
In conclusion, I am so glad I came to Sri Lanka; I have seen things I would otherwise not have had the opportunity to. I would, however, recommend female friends coming on their own to act cautiously, you should be aware that there are different perceptions here. This is a lovely island with a diverse range of people, plants and wildlife which is not worth missing.
Louise Furniss, UK (Sep 05)
For driving and hiring a motorbike, no driving license is necessary. Riding experience however is 'deadly' recommended....
Jeannette & Mink Bijlsma, Netherlands (Feb 03)
Moving About
As many independent travellers are not game to try the buses hire drivers, it is worth letting them know that not all hotels have driver accommodation. The repercussions of this are twofold: one they may have to pay more for their driver to stay in a local hotel, secondly that their driver may have to drive back to a central point which may impact their schedule. It should be a consideration for them, but a local tour guide/ travel agent will be able to assist. As an example when staying at (a hotel) in Galle we witnessed an American lady dismissing her driver and requesting him at 9am the next morning. She was most put out that he wouldn't be able to pick her up until 11am, despite his explanation that as (the hotel) does not have driver accomodation he would have to drive back to Colombo that night and then back down again the next morning.
Alice Young, Australia (Jan 06)
Colombo Airport: It is remarkably satisfying to take the commuter train from the airport into Fort railway station: a 90 minutes journey in third class for Rs 13. What is not so good is finding the station in the first place. It is certainly NOT 500 metres from the airport. There is a station about that distance from the airport, but it is a freight stop on a freight line. The passenger station is around 2 km away. It is necessary to leave the airport on foot by the road exit: turning right out of arrivals and attempting to leave the airport by the road inwards is a non-starter in the current state of military alert at such key locations. We were told to leave by the exit gateway having walked to the entrance; so another couple of hundred metres back the way we had come. The correct route is therefore: left out of arrivals, and out the correct gate, turn right and keep walking, keeping the airport on one's right. Eventually, a level crossing appears and the station is just on the left.
Colombo airport is being upgraded: on March 4 there was no air conditioning in departures and even the lavatory staff had abandoned their tip-seeking posts and gone to seek a cooler location. Logically, it is cooler on the ground floor in departures than in the shopping gallery, but the seating is up there. It is not pleasant in the 'holding pens' at the Gates. We could not establish how long this was expected to last: the shop staff said there should be air-conditioning and the current situation was because the power had been switched to an emergency generator. There is clearly major building work going on.
Both arrivals and departures operates a series of 'one-way valves' so it pays to use whatever banking, lavatory or shopping facilities are to hand as there is no going back. My husband tried to leave the country with Rs 3,000 in his pocket and this was clearly not a good idea (although not too serious). He sweet-talked the police officer with apologies (we really did miss the banks before we went through to departures) and promises to return to the country. Some of the shops in departures will accept rupees, others insist on dollars or euros. There is a branch of the Hatton Bank in departures, upstairs, and the man on the philatelic counter offered to change rupees for us.
The police staff operating the security checks at the airport seem to have nothing in common with any of the friendly, helpful, pleasant Sri Lankans we met elsewhere. It was quite clear to me that my hand luggage was being searched out of curiosity to see what I had and it was the only time in almost three weeks when I felt annoyed. My camera was not even identified, but there was much rummaging through, and unwrapping of, the textiles I had bought in Laksala.
Lesley Fidler, UK (May 05)
Although the public transportation system is good some areas that are of special interest, like the historical sites Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura are best visited by car, or even better with a private driver/guide. Although we never visited a country before with a guide (always backpacking & public transportation), we truly believe that this was the best idea of our whole trip and a key factor in really getting to know Sri Lanka, its culture and its people. A guide is not expensive at all and gives you a great deal of flexibility together with the opportunity of having every question about Sri Lanka answered that comes to your mind.
Tibor Kramer, Germany (May 05)
Traffic in Sri Lanka. Although having travelled considerably around the world, my wife and I agree in that the traffic here is the worst we have ever experienced. In Sri Lankan traffic, might makes right. I truly believe that good old Darwin would have been prone to justify his famous theory on the survival of the fittest using Sri Lankan roads as an exceptionally suited example. Strenghth, weight, size, speed, (horse)power, force and, to a lesser extent, adaptility, are all factors that determinate traffic pattern in this chaotic context of madness. The weaker and softer road users, like pedestrians, dogs, bicycles, cows, motorcycles, ox-charts and their more modern machine driven variants "Farm masters" (that closely resemble the older oxdriven ones, but with a small belt driven diesel motor in front of the driver replacing the ox), tuk-tuks (or auto-rickshaws), etc, must all adapt themselves to the might of the more forceful. This is done by hastily and continously throwing themselves aside to avoid an otherwise catastrophical result.
Sidewalks are virtually non-existent. One's concentration must therefore constantly be on top level during all walks. As one peacefully, and carefully, wanders along a Sri Lankan main road with a child tightly holding on the right side (due to the left hand traffic) one always goes towards the meeting traffic to try to keep visable control over the potential maniacs and murdering machines. The problem, though, is that these as well may come from behind, driving on the wrong side of the road, as Sri Lanka has a notorious and lethal traffic passing culture where
overtakings at any time is the norm.
Per Persson, Norway (Mar 05)
I was living in Anuradhapura, and wanted to make a weekend trip to Penniwela elephant orphanage. The best route I found was to take a bus to Kurunegala, then to Rambukana then get a tuk-tuk. I would also warn against any massages at the herbal gardens, if you
are without male company, as a friend and I were made very uncomfortable. I iknow of people who have taken the train which has added 2 or more hours on to their journey. thanks.
Catriona Matheson (Feb 05)
Scams & Warnings
Quite a number of people approach tourists with pretty much the same story about their 2-year old daughter in an orphanage after the tsunami, asking either for money or for you to buy milk powder. Locals complained that while these people may even be genuine tsunami victims, in the wake of the disaster they have discovered that they can make considerably more money from these scams than from working.
Anonymous (Mar 06)
I was very shocked to read a story from a traveller to Sri Lanka who was harassed during a train ride in Kalutara (see post below by Anonymous, May 05). I have taken that route many times in the past (but note that I'm male) and this doesn't sound like a common occurrence.
I would like to advise any traveller who could encounter such situations to seek help immediately rather than resorting to self defense. Sexual harassment of any form - even verbal or psychological - is taken very seriously and should not give in to notions that it is the norm or there is no way out. Be prudent the same way you would walking alone in a bad neighborhood in any country (or even better do some research about the specific area you visit from authorities or locals).
Anonymous (Mar 06)
Unfortunately since the Tsunami, particularly in the southern provinces there has been a visible increase in begging and "tourist scams". As the majority of livelihoods in the tourist areas in these provinces have been either supplemented or completely replaced (including fishing - however not including farmers - still a lot of work to go there), there doesn't seem to be a logical explanation for this. The usual format of the scam is to inject into any conversation a story of death and loss to get immediate cash. Others include getting tourist names and addresses so that letters can be sent requesting funds. We experienced this in Galle, Dickawalla, Hanbantoto - all areas hit by the tsunami, but which have received a large focus of regeneration efforts.
Alice Young, Australia (Jan 06)
I am concerned about the high tips paid to trackers and drivers in Yala, in the hope that they will track down endangered leopards, among other wildlife, to view. Trackers/Safari drivers (who are poorly paid) have learnt from tourists that if they can get close to the wildlife they will be handsomely rewarded, unperturbed on the detrimental effect this has on the already endangered animals. Tourists through their dollars are causing tracker/drivers to harass animals in order to satisfy demand. I have been in touch with the Leopard trust in regards to this and they share my same concerns. If tourists were aware that through their actions that they may be further endangering leopards, they might like to try another option. To stop the harassment of wildlife in Yala, tip trackers and drivers the same about regardless of what wildlife they encounter. The tip is about the service given by the operators and not what wildlife happens to be out on show at that time.
Kelly Lynch, New Zealand (Jan 06)
Beware touts, scams and rising prices. Although your warning was very good. We felt that with the lack of tourists and the income they provide touts
were pushing harder and harder. At points in major centres we had some very scary run ins.
In Anduradhapura and Polonnaruwa things have turned distinctly ugly but only outside the ancient city. We were assaulted and harassed at almost every turn. It put a damper on a long day at such beautiful ruins. Tissamaharama in the south was bad as well where are bags were rifled through in our Hotel and equipment stolen. Tissa also seems to be a hotbed of child prostitution where tuk tuk drivers were willing to offer anything or anybody for sale.
David and Alicia, Canada (Aug 05)
I would like you to add an extra warning for female travelers taking the train alone in Sri Lanka.
I took the train at 09.30 am from Colombo Station to Galle. At approx. 10.30, the train came to a stop in Kalutara. I was sitting by the window and continued reading the book I had taken with me. I looked up from my book as I heard people coming in. About 20 boys, aged 17, came in from both sides of the train wagon. They formed a circle around the bench where I was seated. 2 of them grabbed me and pulled me from my seat. I grabbed my bag and held on to it during the whole incident. I tried to defend myself by kicking, hitting, scratching and screaming, but they were too many. I was tossed around from one side of the circle to the other, while each of them had his turn of touching me. They grasped me between my legs, on my buttocks and on my breasts while laughing and joking amongst themselves in their own language. At the time of the assault, 3 or 4 other men were seated in the coupe as well. They talked to the boys and joked with them. I screamed for help, told them to stop; but nothing helped. The abuse went on for an approximate 20-30 minutes until the train whistle signalled departure. Laughing, the boys went of and I was left with the 3-4 men that had done nothing whatsoever to hinder the humiliation. Shaking, I returned to my place and, from the corner of my eye, I noticed the man that had been sitting diagonally behind me, started touching his crouch. I pretended not to take notice of it but then he got up and sat himself on the bench, right next to the one I was sitting on. Then, he pulled out his penis from his pants, held it in full view of me, and started masturbating. I tried to change seats but he followed me around and went on satisfying himself. I addressed every single person that passed, tried to make a scene, addressed him directly... nothing worked - once more. This went on for a good 2 hours, until the train reached Galle and he reached his climax. As I descended from the train, I helped an older lady get off as well, and he pushed himself by me, laying on my shoulder the hand he had used to collect his sperm in.
I put down complaints both at the police and at the ministry of tourism, but naturally, nothing can be done. My question - or rather plead - to you is therefore: please, in your guide, discourage all female tourists from travelling alone through Sri Lanka by train! Buses are much safer (also from own experience). Currently, your guide says that making a scene is more than sufficient but I tried that, and it didn't work. And I am not the only one! So, before others go through the same humiliation, include an extra warning in the guide book please!
Anonymous (May 05)
Just thought I should tell you about the beach boys and the bad boys on Mirrisa Beach in Sri Lanka. Basically there's a lot of bad blokes who hang around waiting to make some easy money. They're thieves basically and can't be trusted. I just had all my stuff stolen from me on the beach, yeah I was stupid and I let my guard down. Skinny dipping at 5 in the morning is usually a safe thing to do but not in Mirissa. Any way just wanted to tell you that there quite a lot of theft in Mirissa, so watch out.
Harri Coyte, UK (Apr 05)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Sigiriya Rock: North of (next to) Sigiriya Rock is a 150 m high rock from where you get a superb view on Sigiriya Rock (Lionā??s Pave). On the top of the rock there is also a reclining Buddha statue (about 15 m) made of brick. From the Buddha statue about 200 m further (climb) you can reach a big stone from where you get the superb view. The whole climb (to Buddha and further) takes about 20 minutes.
Viviane Uhlmann, Switzerland (Nov 04)
It's just something curious to see and great to make some pictures: in Negombo, it's worth to go early in the morning (9 or 9.30) and see the fish market in the small port. The smell is awfull but the scene is great: a lot of fish in the streets and in the port, specially big sharks everywhere, all this joined to the great number of black birds (I don't know the name in English), it makes you feel like you're in a Hitchcock movie... Great for pictures!!!
Marta Fernández Olmos, Singapore, (May 03)
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